Mazezushi

Ingredients

• 10½ ozriceuncooked, about 2 gō; washed and cooked fairly firm, used warm (or about 700 g warm cooked rice)
• 4 tbspVinegarfor the seasoning mix; alternatively ready-made sweet vinegar (amazu) in a similar amount
• 2 tbspsugarstirred with vinegar and salt; omit when using ready-made sweet vinegar
• 1 tspsaltfor the seasoning mix
• 2salmonfillet pieces, grilled, skin and bones removed, flaked (optional)
• 15shiso leavesmixed into the rice (optional)
• 4 tspsesame seedstoasted, to fold in (optional)
• 1¾ oztakuan (pickled daikon)cut into small dice (optional)
• 1noritoasted sheet, torn into small pieces (optional)
• 3Eggscrambled finely with a little salt and sugar (optional)

Method

1. Wash and cook the riceWash the rice until the water runs clear, then cook it on the firm side so the grains don't turn mushy when you mix them later. If you already have cooked rice, keep it warm and ready.
2. Mix the seasoned vinegarFor the seasoned vinegar, stir the rice vinegar, sugar and salt together until the sugar and salt have dissolved. If you're using ready-made sweet vinegar (amazu), skip this step and leave out the sugar.
3. Grill and flake the salmonGrill the salted salmon until cooked through, then remove the skin and bones and flake the flesh with your fingers or a fork.
4. Prep toppings and scramble eggsCut the takuan into small dice, tear the toasted nori into small pieces and slice the shiso leaves into fine strips. Beat the eggs with a little salt and sugar and cook them in a pan, stirring, into fine, soft scrambled egg.
5. Season the ricePut the warm rice in a large bowl, pour the seasoned vinegar evenly over it and work it in with a spatula using cutting, slicing motions rather than stirring, so the grains stay whole.
6. Let the rice coolCover the rice with a cloth or lid and let it cool a little, so it doesn't dry out.
7. Fold in the toppingsGently fold the salmon, shiso, takuan, scrambled egg and toasted sesame seeds into the rice.
8. Serve topped with noriSpoon the mazezushi into bowls and scatter the torn nori over the top at the very end, so it stays crisp.

Tips and variations

The simplest version needs nothing more than takuan, nori and sesame; if you like, add slices of chikuwa alongside the salmon and shiso. For a Western-leaning take, use cooked ham, sliced cheese, finely shredded lettuce and scrambled egg. You can also skip the vinegar altogether: fry burdock root and carrot in oil, add canned tuna (bonito), soaked shiitake, satsuma-age and usuage, simmer with light soy sauce for 5 minutes, then drain well and mix into the rice. Mazezushi tastes best lukewarm, spooned into bowls right after mixing.