
Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto)
Unagi no Oshizushi
Osaka-style pressed sushi with grilled eel, egg and myoga
The flower buds of a Japanese ginger species, finely shredded and usually eaten raw: crisp and fresh, mildly pungent with a floral scent.
Myoga is a perennial related to ginger, eaten not for its root but for its reddish-white flower buds, which push up straight from the soil in summer. Raw and sliced paper-thin, they taste fresh, mildly pungent and floral at once, with a hint of ginger and shallot but without ginger's heat or fibres. That crisp freshness is what makes myoga the classic garnish for cold noodles, tofu, soups and sashimi; it goes in late or raw, since cooking dulls its aroma. It is also pickled in vinegar, which turns it pink. Fresh myoga is rarely found outside Japan, most likely in a well-stocked Japanese or Asian grocery, sometimes frozen or pickled; the plant is hardy and can be bought from perennial nurseries or by mail order and grown in the garden.
There is no true substitute, because the floral scent is unique. Finely shredded young ginger with a little spring onion or shallot catches the freshness and gentle bite, but the dish loses its characteristic floral note.

Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto)
Osaka-style pressed sushi with grilled eel, egg and myoga